Alfama

Alfama sits between the Tagus and São Jorge Castle, and it's the oldest neighbourhood in Lisbon. It survived the 1755 earthquake almost untouched, which is why its narrow, winding streets still follow the original Moorish layout. It's also the birthplace of Fado, and it's still a lived-in neighbourhood, not a postcard: washing lines between windows, neighbours chatting on the steps, the smell of grilled sardines drifting out of the tascas.

Casa da Amendoeira is a few steps from here

Viewpoints

A few minutes' walk from Casa da Amendoeira are some of the best viewpoints in Lisbon. Miradouro de Santa Luzia, with its garden and bougainvillea pergola, is the most photographed: the view opens over Alfama's rooftops down to the river. Right next door is Miradouro das Portas do Sol, more open, and one of the best spots in the city to watch the sunrise. It's worth going early, before 9:30am, before the queue for photos starts. To really escape the crowds, Miradouro de Santo Estêvão, a little further up, has almost the same view with far fewer people.

Heritage and museums

São Jorge Castle, of Moorish origin (11th century), overlooks the neighbourhood, and from the top you can see much of Lisbon. Lisbon Cathedral (Sé), the oldest in the capital, holds the tombs of the House of Braganza. The Fado Museum tells the story of this musical genre born in Alfama, with an audio guide that includes Amália Rodrigues's voice. Next to the National Pantheon, where Amália herself is buried, stands the Monastery of São Vicente de Fora.

Feira da Ladra flea market

On Tuesday and Saturday mornings, Campo de Santa Clara fills up with Feira da Ladra, Lisbon's oldest street market: vintage clothes, old books, records, crafts, and a bit of everything. Tuesdays tend to be quieter for anyone who wants to browse without the crowds.

Where to eat

Eating and shopping like a local

At lunch, many restaurants offer a menu do dia with much better value than dinner. It's worth skipping restaurants right next to the busiest squares, like Rossio, Praça do Comércio, or by the Castle, and heading instead for the quieter streets of Alfama, Mouraria, Graça or Intendente. For something to take home, local markets like Mercado de Campo de Ourique or Mercado da Ribeira, and independent shops, are usually a better bet than the souvenir stores by the main sights.

Getting around

The most practical option is the Viva Viagem card, rechargeable and valid for one year: it works on the metro, buses, trams and urban trains. You can top it up per trip (zapping) or with a day pass, which is usually worth it if you're making several trips in a day. The metro is the fastest way across the city and runs from 6:30am to 1am. Carris buses reach areas the metro doesn't, including Alfama and Graça. Tram 28, the historic and scenic route, tends to get packed. It's worth catching early in the morning, or switching to tram 12 instead, which covers similar ground with far fewer people. Taxis and apps like Uber and Bolt are handy at night, with luggage, or for places further out.

See current prices (Lisbon Metro)

Avoiding crowds

It's worth visiting the busiest sights early, right at opening time, or later in the afternoon. The most crowded hours, largely because of cruise ship arrivals, tend to run from 11am to 3pm. Jerónimos Monastery, Belém Tower, São Jorge Castle, Alfama and tram 28 all feel it. Booking tickets online saves queueing time for the Fado Museum, the Aljube, Jerónimos and the Castle. To get away from the crowds altogether, neighbourhoods like Intendente, Marvila, Beato or the upper part of Graça offer a quieter side of Lisbon.

Safety

Lisbon is a safe city, but pickpockets do work the touristy areas and crowded transport, tram 28 especially. Keep your bag closed and in front of you on the metro, on trams and in markets, and avoid flashing cash, phones or cameras. At night, or with luggage, stick to official taxis or apps like Uber and Bolt. In an emergency, call 112. There's also a tourist police service set up to help visitors.

A few more practical tips

Lisbon has a lot of steep streets and slippery Portuguese pavement, so comfortable shoes with good grip make a real difference. The summer sun is strong, so bring sunscreen, a hat and a water bottle. If your plans include a lot of museums and public transport, the Lisboa Card can be worth it: it gives free or discounted entry to several attractions, plus unlimited travel on public transport. For the beach, Carcavelos, Cascais and Estoril are all under an hour away by train. In summer, go early or late in the day to avoid the crowds.

See current prices (Lisboa Card)